Bolzano, Italy: A Mountain Town with Culture, Class, & History.

Bolzano is a fascinating stop on our Grand Tour. It's located in the Italian Alps, but German speaking. Along with its outstanding natural beauty it houses one of Europe's most interesting archeological finds: Ötzi, the mummified remains of a prehistoric man found in 1991 by hikers in the nearby mountains. In the following post Tim Pozzi of BBC Travel highlights some of Bolzano's many charms. 

Bolzano is the gateway to the Dolomites. It sits in a valley, and it’s quite something to gaze up from the main square, pretty Piazza Walther, at the forest-clad slopes and ridges of jagged limestone that surround it.

The centre is traffic-free, so as you meander away from Piazza Walther you hear sparrows cheeping, coffee machines whirring, old women gossiping, cups and saucers clinking.

The colourful medieval, Gothic and Belle Époque buildings, with their stepped gables, turrets and attractively faded frescoes, have a north European feel. Yet the porticoed main commercial street, Via Portici, feels Mediterranean. At Piazza delle Erbe, described with pleasure by Goethe in his Italian Journey, the two flavours meet. Some of the cosiest bars and cafés are hidden behind the stalls of fruit and flowers, spices and cheeses. And speaking of fruit – did you know that South Tyrol produces 12 per cent of Europe’s apples?

Bolzano’s churches; its Franciscan cloisters with 15th-century frescoes of monks from Scotland and Newcastle; its Mercantile Museum; and Museion, a spectacular, glass-clad collection of modern art on the banks of the River Talvera, are all rewarding places to visit. But Bolzano’s biggest attraction is Ötzi, a mummy discovered by chance in 1991 after spending the previous 5,300 years frozen in mountain ice. Most intriguingly, he was murdered.

You can see Ötzi in his fridge, kept at 21F (-6C), at the Museum of Archaeology, alongside a thrillingly vast quantity of artefacts found with him, from bear-fur hat to bow and arrows, and fascinating footage of the police, not realising how old he was, extracting his body.

This being the 20th anniversary of his discovery [in 2011], there is also a stunning new reconstruction of how tattooed, muscly Ötzi would have looked on the last day of his life.

The chance to come face to face with a man who lived some 500 years before the building of the Pyramids makes the journey to Bolzano worthwhile on its own.

Discovering Great Art With An Emotional Punch

Art can speak to us in profound ways, moving us emotionally, intellectually, and even spiritually. Europe is filled with countless artistic masterpieces worthy of your time and attention. Part of the joy of exploring Europe's art is discovering those pieces that speak to you personally. What evokes this connection is unique to each person and difficult to predict, however we think the following works are worth checking out—and will hopefully provide some inspiration for you to discover new ones of your own. 

Stained Glass Windows, Saint Stephan’s Church, Marc Chagall. Mainz, Germany. 

The experience is aesthetically arresting; blue light filtering through the stained glass bathes the church’s interior. The scene’s subject matter is biblical in origin—Adam and Eve, Moses, angels, scenes from the natural word. However the style is thoroughly modern with the unmistakeable flourish of Chagall—colorful, whimsical, mystical. 

After the atrocities of WWII, Chagall, a Jew, spent three years considering whether to work with this Catholic church in Germany. He finally agreed sensing an opportunity for reconciliation. The scenes he so beautifully portrays are made all the more poignant in the context of the suffering and hope that went into their creation.

Wheatfield with Crows, Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands. 

Standing in front of this work, thought by may to be his last, Van Gogh’s brilliance—and madness—are undeniable. A brooding sky of dark blue and black contrasts with the bright yellow field; a pathway leads into the distance. Black birds hovering above provide a sense of movement and foreboding. The visuals are stunning, but the real power of this piece comes from contemplating the man behind the masterpiece and the final glimpse we get into his psyche. 

Holocaust Memorial, Peter Eisenman. Berlin, Germany. 

This outdoor monument is a must-do experience when in Berlin. The concept is simple: a large field of raised rectangular concrete columns rise upward, creating a criss-crossing network of pathways. As one walks towards the center of the exhibit the floor slopes downward while the columns extend upward until one is lost in a forest of concrete. Reminiscent of tombs, the countless columns create a tangible reminder of the scale of this tragedy. Walking through these a visceral sense of isolation results, first physical and then emotional. This is an extremely well designed installation, creating ample opportunity for one to reflect on this most horrendous chapter of Europe's history. 

Pieta, Michelangelo. Saint Peter’s Basilica, Rome, Italy. 

In this exquisite sculpture Michelangelo breaks from convention, portraying a youthful, beautiful Mary—instead of the usual, more sedate version. While there are countless sculptures depicting this scene of Mary and Jesus, Michelangelo's rendition is particularly poignant. Undoubtedly his raw talent is a factor, as was Michelangelo’s own hope to depict a "religious vision of abandonment and a serene face of the son.” We're not the only ones to be moved by this piece. In 1972 a mentally disturbed archeologist chipped off Mary’s nose. The fragment was never found so the repair was made using a piece of marble taken from Mary's back. The sculpture now rests behind bullet-proof glass.

What pieces of art have made an impression on you? We'd love to hear about your favorites! 

Where to After Florence? 3 Tuscan Hill Towns to Explore.

Our Grand Tour ends in Florence, the gateway to Tuscany with its picturesque hill towns surrounded by endless wineries and sun-drenched countryside. The Tuscan hill country is a worthy option for those looking to extend their stays and do some further exploring. The following post from bloggers Beth & Randy is guaranteed to leave you hungry (perhaps quite literally) to explore more of this iconic region of Italy. 

Siena and San Gimignano are the most well known hill towns in Tuscany, but they certainly are not the only ones. In fact, central Italy is famous for its hill towns. Their crumbling stone walls seem to cling to every rocky peak, watching over the manicured valleys and vineyards as the rush of the 21st century passes by below. During our stay with Stefano, we visited three hill towns, including Chianciano Terme, in the Siena Province. Each offered a taste of what eludes so many visitors to Italy: tranquility and tradition.

CHIANCIANO VECCHIA

Wine tasting in the cellar of Agricola Fontanelle.

Separated by a valley, Chianciano Vecchia is only a 10 minute walk following Via Madonna della Rossa from Agriturismo La Pietriccia. We spent most of our time in Chianciano Vecchia exploring the wines of Agricola Fontanelle. In the cave-like cellars of the small batch winery, we met with winemaker Riccardo Rosati who, along with his two brothers, produces world-class wines from experience they’ve inherited from generations of family winemaking. We spent a few hours with Riccardo and his family, sampling their wines and incredible selection of cured meats and olive oil. The family’s warmth made us feel like locals, just visiting with some friends on a weekday night.

MONTALCINO

If Virginia is for lovers then Montalcino is for wine lovers. This medieval hill town is famous for its Brunello di Montalcino red wines, featuring an array of enoteche (wine bars). Heck, even the 14th century fortezza contains one. Just outside of Montalcino sits the Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Located in a valley of olive trees, the abbey is considered to be one of the top architectural remains of the Romanesque Period. Several times a day the church’s community of monks fill the 12th century stone hall with the harmonious sounds of traditional Gregorian chants. We got to hear the chants in person and it was mesmerizing. The performances are free and open to the public.

PIENZA

A beautiful, typical scene in this perfect Italian town.

Named after pope Pius II, Pienza is full of renaissance architecture, moving with the feel of a modern day medieval village. As I looked out over the gentle, carefully cultivated hills of Val d’Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was easy to see the inspiration behind pope Pius II decision to remodel his hometown in the style of his day: Renaissance. Besides the hill towns’ grand views and classic architecture, Pienza is also known for its sheep’s milk cheese, pecorino. Plus, with streets names like Via Dell’Amore (Love), Via Del Bacio (Kiss) and Via Della Fortuna (Fortune), it is difficult not to fall head over heels for this charming hilltop town. 

How To Travel Europe Hassle-Free (While Seeing More)

 
Traveling in Europe requires a bit of a learning curve. 

Picture yourself in a new city standing on a street corner, map outstretched before you while your traveling companion tries to cross-reference your location with your trusty guide book. In less than an hour, your train leaves from the station across town—but you’re still trying to locate the closest metro station. 

Quite quickly your romantic European vacation can morph into an unexpected opportunity for you to practice your conflict resolution skills. 

If you’re trying to see a number of different cities, scenes like these can become all too common. It’s easy to spend a lot of time and energy managing your itinerary, catching your next flight, and finding your next hotel—while schlepping yourself and your luggage all over the streets of the beautiful European cities you’re trying to enjoy.

With OneLife Tours it's easy—simply bring your bag down to the hotel lobby and step into our private coach. We drive you door to door, accompanied by our expert guides. All of our tours are designed to make travel between cities hassle-free and expedient.

Because we have our own vehicle, we have a degree flexibility that simply isn’t possible while traveling by rail or plane. We take advantage of this flexibility by stopping at noteworthy historical sites that would be next to impossible to see otherwise. For instance on our Grand Tour we're able to make a stop at the fascinating site of the battle of Verdun. During the First World War, this small French village was the stage for the longest continuous battle in the history of modern warfare. 

 
Our guides are passionate about the places we visit and know exactly where to go and what to see. Our tours allow you to maximize your enjoyment of Europe while minimizing your stress and planning. You can sit back and enjoy the ride knowing you’ll arrive in the next city with the time and energy to explore. 

With OneLife Tours there’s zero hassle and zero time wasted on missed connections and other unexpected headaches that can come with navigating unfamiliar foreign cities. 

Free up your time and energy with OneLife Tours to truly explore the magnificent art, culture, and food of Europe. 

Being in History

Visiting Europe is a kind of historical re-awakening - a way of linking to our collective past.  Walking down a centuries old cobblestone road, walking between centuries old buildings, I get the feeling that in some way, the past is alive in these places.  With the correct historical context, or a guide who can provide it, you will get this feeling too.

When I take a OneLife Tours group into the 850 year old Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, I like to tell some of the great stories from the church's history.  But I also want my travelers to get in "touch" with history.  Inside, at the back of this gothic enormity, I take them to one of the huge stone pillars.  And I invite them to touch it.  And to imagine the hands that quarried these stones, that carefully chipped them into this shape, and placed them at the base of the column.  To realize that those people lived, worked and died here, in history, and that those who placed the stones we can actually touch would not have lived to see their work completed (in fact even their great-grandchildren would not have seen this - the cathedral took 200 years to build!)  This is history.  This is being in history.  

Do this when you travel. Be in history.              www.onelifetours.ca

Hungarian photographer Ablak Múltra forces people to "be in history" by overlaying old photographs over new images captured in the same place. The results can be stunning!

5 Great Water Experiences in Europe

Humans are drawn to water.  There is a universal appeal to the beauty of a waterfall, a small stream, a crystal clear lagoon.  Just look at house prices - the closer you are to a coastline or a lake, the more expensive the property.  When I share pictures from travels in Europe, I can prove statistically that the ones that have water in them, whether they be the Ligurian coastline of Italy's Cinque Terre, the Grand Canal of Venice, the Seine River in Paris, or the waterfalls of Plitvice in Croatia, are by far the most popular (they get the most "likes" and "shares" on facebook). But it is not just aesthetics - our attraction to water goes much deeper than the "surface".

Water sustains life, and makes up more than 50% of our own bodies by weight.  It is a powerful force that can bring positive energy (medieval watermills / modern hydro-electric dams) but also unstoppable devastation (tsunamis, floods).  And of course there is the mystery - another world exists in the water - one that humans can visit briefly, but never join.

Despite the danger and the unknown, we love to be near the water, on the water, over the water, and in the water.  Travelers routinely seek out any available water-themed experiences.  Here are a few you should try in Europe:

#5 - Paris, France:  A cruise down the Seine River. 

I prefer to do this in the evening, when Notre Dame, the Conciergerie, the Eiffel Tower and other riverside structures are beautifully lit up.  It's a good way to relax for an hour or so after a day of sightseeing in Paris.  If you are staying in the Latin Quarter area, take the Vedettes du Pont Neuf  near Saint Chapelle.  If you are staying closer to the Eiffel Tower/Rue Cler area, take the Bateaux Parisiens.  You can also splurge and take one of the dinner cruises - reservations and proper attire required.  Join us in Paris for three nights on our Grand Tour!

#4 - Cinque Terre, Italy:  A swim in the Mediterranean - any time of year?

I take tour groups to Europe in the summer, when you will see lots of people, locals and tourists,  populating the beautiful beaches on the coast of Italy.  I also take groups in March, when, on what a Canadian would call a nice warm day, the locals, in their full length winter coats and scarves, will watch in disbelief as a bunch of North American tourists hit the somewhat chilly waves.  Hey - you're there - you might as well have the experience!  Both our Italian Experience and Grand Tour feature a two night stay in the Cinque Terre region.

3. Škocjan Caves, Slovenia:  Daring to walk high above the Reka River.

Disappearing underground in the Karst region of Slovenia, the mighty Reka River becomes visible only to those who venture into the Škocjan Caves.  In one of the largest underground canyons in the world (think Grand Canyon, but with a stone ceiling above you) tourists of old used to hug the walls and walk high above the river with only their torches for light.  Now with modern railings and lighting, the journey is a lot less dangerous, but still a thrill!  Note that you can only enter Škocjan with a guide - click the link for more information.  Or join our Best of the East tour and we'll take care of the details!

#2 - Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic:  Rafting down the Vltava River.

Want to enter this beautiful baroque town in style?  Rent a raft up river, and float into town!  Locals and visitors alike love to cruise down the usually calm river in an assortment of rafts, canoes and kayaks, stopping at one of the many riverside pubs for lunch and a refreshing Czech pils beer.  The natural scenery is wonderful, but once you enter the town, which sits conveniently on an "s" curve in the river, it is glorious!  There are several raft rental agencies - I recommend the friendly people at Maleček Rafting & Canoe.  Our Best of the East and Ultimate Beer Tour both feature a rafting trip into Cesky Krumlov!

#1 - Venice, Italy: This is the classic - a gondola ride through the canals of Venice.

Once a major form of transportation for locals, now a remnant of a bygone era, gliding down these lovely waterways can be a great joy.  Expensive - yes.  Romantic - depends who you're with.  Best time to go - the evening.  Best place to hire a gondolier - debatable, but I wouldn't hire one at the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark's Square - the "back" canals are much preferable to the Grand Canal, which you can travel on in a local vaporetto (water-bus) for a lot less money.  Campo San Moise is a nice place to hire a gondola.

"You don't even have a tan"

Upon return from one of my trips to Europe in 2012, a neighbour asked me, "So what do you do when you're over there?  I mean, you don't even have a tan."

I actually did have some colour from hiking under the warm Italian sun in the Dolomites and along the Mediterranean coast.  And I even went swimming and spent some time on the beach while visiting the Cinque Terre.  But my goals in traveling to Europe are not related to acquiring a tan, and I had not put any conscious effort into deepening my pigmentation.

My neighbour has not been to Europe.  She has been to Mexico.  Multiple times.  I believe to the same resort.  And Hawaii.  And she, of course, comes back with a deep tan, as well as a sense of satisfaction and a relaxed demeanor.

I think when I come back from a trip, I definitely share that sense of satisfaction in time well spent, but I think my demeanor is usually one of excited anticipation - of sharing stories and photos (and beer and chocolate for the lucky ones) with friends and colleagues, and of, well, planning my next trip!

So when she asked me the question about what I do when I'm in Europe, she got a long and enthusiastic answer from this admittedly jet-lagged Europhile.  I talked about meeting new people, trying new Belgian brews, searching for a winery in the hills of Tuscany, walking lopsided out of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, cycling along canals past windmills, quiet moments of reflection in 800 year old cathedrals, being overwhelmed by the magnificent beauty of Botticelli's Birth of Venus, eating the freshest most flavourful pesto anyone has ever had anywhere at any time in a little restaurant in a little village on the west coast of Italy... and on and on and on.

Her response: "Wow, you must come back from vacation more worn out than when you left!"

True, my "vacations" are not really relaxing.  And most of the time when I'm overseas, I'm actually working (to provide a stress-free vacation for the people who are traveling with me) not vacationing.  But I'm not tired out when I come back.  I'm energized and invigorated.  And I can't wait to go again.

Have it all on your next vacation - Europe's got history, art, architecture, food and drink, great people, and even a few beaches where you can work on your tan if that's what you like!  This is Vernazza in the Cinque Terre region of Italy - part of the Grand Tour.