Great Days in Europe: October 2012

Lake Bled (as seen from the castle terrace) - its natural beauty has drawn visitors for centuries

Slovenia is a tiny country, even by European standards. Driving from Austria to Italy? You might not even realize that you’ve passed through another country, if not for the huge cold war era border stations – now completely empty, with no stop required – a monument to another era. For much of the 20^th century, Slovenia was a province of Yugoslavia – a post WWII communist conglomeration held together more by their leader President Tito’s charisma than anything else. But Slovenia has been a sovereign nation since the Slovenes declared their independence in 1991. A brief conflict ensued, but Slovenia avoided the devastation that other parts of Yugoslavia suffered as it disintegrated.

Today’s Slovenia is a peaceful, friendly mix of baroque elegance and natural beauty. And nowhere is that natural beauty more stunning than on Lake Bled.

Nestled in the Julian Alps, the lake is like a scene from a fairy tale – a castle on a cliff overlooks the town, and a beautiful baroque chapel sits majestically on Slovenia’s only island. To get to the island, you can rent a row boat or take a ride on a pletna – a special keel-less wooden boat handcrafted by local artisans and operated by local families. The pletna captains have inherited the special rights to provide this service from the time of Maria Theresa – the Hapsburg Empress who ruled Slovenia as part of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire. During harsh economic times, the Empress granted 20 Bled families the right to not pay taxes they could ill-afford, but instead to provide a service – transporting pilgrims across the lake to worship at the island church. Today, the descendants of those same families continue to fulfill their ancestors’ role, but sadly, they are no longer tax exempt!

A traditional pletna, awaiting it's next group of pilgrims.

Robert Wilfan, expert plenta captain and friendly local guide.

A journey to the island and back takes about 90 - 120 minutes (depending on how much time you spend on the island). While you are on the island, you will be encouraged by your pletna captain to ring the “wishing bell” in the church. Robert Wilfan, one of the pletna captains and a great local guide, loves to share the legend of the bell with tourists. Many of the captains speak English quite well, and somehow can fit in some excellent history between deep breaths as they row and you relax! Make sure your camera has plenty of memory – photo opportunities abound.

Slovenia's only island is small, but the church is grand!

You will get a great view of the Bled Grad (castle) that clings precariously to a lakeside cliff while you are out on the water. Don’t miss it – when you are back in the village head up the hill to the castle (a short uphill drive in a bus or car, or a steep walk!). Commanding views await you from the upper terrace, and a visit to the Guttenberg printing press and the monk’s wine cellar, both of which are attended by museum workers in costume and in character, are fabulous parts of the castle experience. The monk in particular has a great sense of humour, and a great passion for Slovenian wine – which is actually really good! I have tried several of the wines he has in his cellar, and I favour the “house” white that you can bottle yourself – with the monks help.

Wine is a spiritual experience for this Slovenian monk and his happy visitors!

Back in the village, pop into a local restaurant or patisserie overlooking the lake and enjoy a piece of Kremna rezina – a Bled original. In 1955, the pastry chef at the Park Hotel came up with a new recipe for cream cake – a mix of custard, whipped cream, and puff pastry. Since then, they have served over 10 million of these delicious pastries! You can go for the original at the Park Hotel, or get it at many other cafés and restaurants in town. Afterwards, if you’re up for it, take a walk around the lake on the flat, well-maintained path – and during the hour or two it will take you, contemplate this beautiful little corner of the earth!

Interested in visiting Slovenia? OneLife Tours Best of Eastern Europe will give you the full Lake Bled experience and more. Check out our tours at www.onelifetours.ca

Pletna Captain Robert Wilfan and OneLife Tour Director Craig Bresett outside of the Bled castle museum.

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North Wales is famous for its towering castles and rugged mountains. The walled town of Conwy, with its fine old shell of a castle is a perfect place to visit for both. Conwy is situated on the coast between the Irish Sea and Snowdonia National Park (http://www.eryri-npa.gov.uk/home). The big draw in the park is Wales’ highest peak, Snowdon, but a less touristy more serene hiking experience can be found just outside the walls of the town on Conwy Mountain, or Mynydd y Dref (“The Town’s Mountain” in Welsh).

On a recent trip to Conwy, I set out for what I expected to be a brisk pre-breakfast walk along some of the roads outside of town, but found myself at a trailhead and decided to take it. The first part of the “trail” actually went straight through a farmer’s field and past his house. The feeling that I was trespassing was dispelled when the farmer, who was also up early (aren’t they always?) greeted me with a warm “bore da -good moornin’” as I walked past the barn. Passing through a set of sheep-proof gates I meandered up the hill through the bell heather and rowan trees. It wasn’t long until I was at a peak of sorts – and to my great surprise found myself standing in the ruins of an iron-age fort, Castell Caer Seion. This fort had once ringed the peak and stood as a defensive position for the local Celtic tribe.

From the peak the town and its castle looked small, and to the east, if I had binoculars, Liverpool would have been visible. But the view over Conwy Bay and into the rest of Snowdonia was spectacular. As I wandered around amongst the stones, I came across another surprise – a herd of wild horses – actual wild horses! They seemed completely unperturbed by my presence – as long as I didn’t get too close. A little further down the trail (I took a different trail down) a flock of sheep blocked my path. They moved en masse as I got closer, but stood just a few feet off of the trail and stared me down as I walked past. I thanked the sheep for the wool they gave to make my newly purchased tweed jacket, and was on my way back to town.

There is something special about discovering a new place and having a new experience on your own – but at the same time I wanted to share it with others. At breakfast that morning I told my group members about my early morning adventure – “Why didn’t you wake us up?” was asked more than once. If I had known about the trails up the mountain, I would have! And in fact, the next group I take to Britain will definitely have the opportunity to get up early in Conwy and join me on the mountain. Go to www.OneLifeTours.ca to find out how you can be part of that group!