Christmas in Europe: German Christkindlmarkt

 Nobody does Christmas like the Germans, and for good reason.  All over German speaking Europe, but especially in Bavaria, the tradition of the Christkindlmarkt (Christmas market) goes back 700 years.  In town squares throughout Germany right now, local craftsmen and merchants are setting up Christmas markets as they have done since the Middle Ages.  

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You can warm up with some Glühwein (mulled wine) like your medieval ancestors did at Munich's annual Christmas Market.

Unlike our modern "Black Friday" Walmart riots, the traditional Christmas market is a peaceful shopping experience where you can buy unique hand made crafts, sip mulled wine, and enjoy good music.  And there is an unapologetic focus on the spirit of the season, and on the Christ child - Christkindlmarkt literally means "Christ child" market.  It was actually the German protestant reformer Martin Luther who decreed that gifts should be given on Christmas Day in celebration of the birth of the Christ child rather than on St. Nicholas' Day (Dec. 6) as had been the tradition. 

Friendly Liselotte Groemer has been selling handpainted christmas ornaments at the Nuremburg Christmas Market since the 1950's.

The Christmas pickle ornament - a unique German tradition. 

With a central nativity display (an imported tradition from medieval Italy - details in a future blog) and a beautifully decorated Tannenbaum (Christmas tree - a German original), the Christmas market is an oasis of light and love for locals and visitors alike.

Beautiful hand made nativity scenes are on display and on sale - reminding visitors of the "reason for the season".

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a walled medieval town on Bavaria's Romantic Road, attracts visitors from all over the world to its Christmas market.  The town itself is a beauty all year round, but with a light dusting of snow and the ambiance of the market, it becomes irresistible.  And even if you don't visit during the Christmas season, you can experience it year round in the seemingly endless rooms of the Käthe Wohlfahrt store across the street from city hall.  The store offers every conceivable Christmas ornament, decoration, doll, window display… you've never seen anything like it!

Bordered by the town hall (on the left) and councilors' tavern (on the right), the Rothenburg Christmas Market is an annual tradition going back to medieval times when these buildings were constructed.

Deep within the store is the Rothenburg Christmas Museum - 2700 square feet of Christmas history that will have even the youngest visitor nostalgic for the "old days".  A visit to the museum evokes a lightheartedness, a feeling of warmth and goodwill, with none of the “stresses” of our modern holiday, even in July!  I’ve seen many of my tour members walk out of the museum into a warm midsummer Rothenburg street humming “Silent Night” and pining for cold air and hot chocolate!  

Below - American travel guru Rick Steves explores the Rothenburg Christmas Museum

 

Come and celebrate year-round Christmas on OneLife Tours’ Grand Tour of Europe.  It includes a two night stay in romantic Rothenburg – join us!

From outside the town walls, Rothenburg looks like the setting of a fairy tale, whatever the season!

5 Italian dishes you must eat in Italy

 

Italy is defined by its regions.  Just as you would expect the culture and cuisine of Mississippi to be different from that of Maine, you should expect that the culture and cuisine of Tuscany is different from that of Lazio or Liguria.  A smart traveller doesn’t go through Italy ordering Fettuccini Alfredo everywhere (or anywhere, for that matter – they won’t know what it is!)

Here are 5 regional dishes that you should eat in your Italian travels:

   
#5 – Baccalà alla Vicentina - Veneto

Bet you’ve never heard of this one!   Baccalà is salted or dried cod – a food that became popular in the region of Venice when Piero Querini, a travelling merchant, shipwrecked in Norway and developed a love for this high protein, easily stored food.  He brought it back to share, and it has been imported in great quantities ever since.  Served with soft polenta (a savoury cornmeal porridge popular in Northern Italy), it becomes a unique dish worth seeking out.     

Best eaten after a long day getting lost in the backstreets of Venice or Verona.

 

Though Baccalà officially means "salt cod" it is often dried cod which is served with this classic Veneto dish.

 

   

#4 - Tagliatelle al Tartufo – Tuscany

The truffle is one of the most prized foods in the world, and it is no surprise that it grows in Tuscany, one of the most popular foodie regions of Italy.  Truffles are mushrooms that grow underground – they are not cultivated, but must be found using specially trained pigs or dogs.  This difficulty in obtaining them, combined with their very strong flavor, make them an expensive commodity – some fetch up to $4000 per kilo!  Truffles are often used to flavor butter or oil, and can also be found thinly (VERY thinly) sliced on  Tagliatelle al Tartufo – egg noodles with truffle.  And the price won’t break your travel budget!  If it (or anything with truffle) is on the menu – try it!  

Best eaten after a day of being overwhelmed by the art and architecture of Florence.

Even sliced razor thin, truffles still pack a deluge of flavour.

   

#3 -  Knödel – Trentino-Alto Adige 

I can hear you now, “Knödel?  Isn’t this supposed to be a list of Italian food?  That looks German to me.”  The beautiful Trentino-Alto Adige region, more commonly known as the South Tyrol by local residents, is the northern-most region of Italy, bordering Austria, and it’s culture, cuisine, and language reflect a Germanic heritage. Knödel simply means dumpling.  And the varieties found in this region are creative, mouthwatering masterpieces of culinary art.  Try a mixed plate – one made with spinach, another with beets, another with speck (a local ham).  So good!  

 Best eaten after a day hiking in the glorious Dolomites.

Served with a broth or without, Knödel will satisfy even the heartiest of appetites.

 

#2 – Pizza Napoli – Lazio

Pizza is good pretty much anywhere in Italy. But when you are in Rome in the Lazio region, you must try the Pizza Napoli.  Pizza originates in Naples, south of Rome, but has spread all over the country (all over the world!).  Pizza Napoli celebrates the origins of this fisherman’s lunch – thin wheat crust, fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and anchovies.  Simple, but bursting with flavor due to the fresh sauce and the anchovies.  Don’t like anchovies?  Try the pizza Margherita – same thing but no fish.  

 Best eaten after  spending the day rummaging through the ancient past at the Roman Forum.

Your Pizza Napoli won't be "swimming" with anchovies - just a few are enough!

 

#1 - Gnocchi with pesto – Liguria

Liguria is a small region on the north coast of Italy that is often referred to as the Italian Riviera. It is also the birthplace of pesto – a heavenly mixture of basil, coarse sea salt, pine nuts, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and grated Pecorino Romano cheese.  The name pesto is derived from the Italian word pestare, “to crush” – the above ingredients are tossed into a mortar and crushed together with a pestle.  A platter of warm, soft gnocchi (small potato-wheat dumplings) smothered with fresh pesto (fresh as in the basil was picked that morning) is an eating experience you will never forget.   

Best eaten after a hike anywhere in the Cinque Terre!

It's not easy being green.  But it is so tasty!

 Interested in trying some of these dishes for yourself?  Why not join the Grand Tour of Europe, which includes great regional food like this during our eight days in Italy!  Or if you're looking for more Italy than that - try our Italian Experience tour!

Something on this list that I'm missing?  Let me know!

 

"Hell cannot be so terrible"

Verdun.  For a past generation, this one simple word evoked all the horror of war.  Displacement, destruction, devastation, death.   Hyperbole is not even possible when describing the events of the Battle of Verdun. 

Verdun is a town that found itself on the eastern frontier of France in 1914 – right on the border with Germany.  A natural gateway to Paris, it was heavily fortified as a defensive measure against a German invasion.  However, when the Germans did strike in 1916, most of the French troops had been moved to other fronts.  A huge convoy of men and munitions began – the French command wanted Verdun kept at all costs.  “On ne passe pas!” (They shall not pass) was the oft quoted battle cry, coined by French General Robert Neville. 

French military poster with the words "On ne passe pas!" (They shall not pass)

From the 21^st of February to the 18^th of December, 1916, unrelenting warfare was carried out across the forested hills and farms outside of the evacuated, destroyed town of Verdun.  The numbers alone are shocking :

• 9 months, 3 weeks and 6 days of continuous fighting
•  Over 377,000 casualties on the French side 
• Over 337,000 on the German side
•  Over 70 000 casualties per month - just on this one battlefield
•  Over 40 million artillery shells fired

The battle for Verdun turned the beautiful French countryside into an alien landscape – the forests were obliterated, the farms were pockmarked with huge shell craters, and the 9 rural villages that surrounded Verdun were erased – nothing was left.  Imagine these villages, home to generations of farmers and craftspeople, bakers and priests, going back to medieval times.  Gone.  Their former happy streets became places of unimaginable horror.  The ground, churned up, a muddy, murky mess of clay, shells, and human remains.  

French troops in the muck and mire

German machine gunners wearing gas masks in case of chemical attack

This was Verdun.  A new type of warfare was being waged here.  Each side dug in, building trenches several hundred metres away from the other side.  A constant barrage of artillery rained down on the soldiers on either side.  Each day the men would leave the trenches to fight in “no mans’ land”, almost certain death.  Reinforcements would be brought in, and this cycle would play out over and over again.  Territory was gained and lost in metres.  By the end of the battle, both sides were essentially in the same place they were at the beginning.  This was a war of attrition.  German Chief of General Staff, Erich von Falkenhayn, famously stated that he wanted to “bleed France white”.  In other words, rather than gain territory as was the traditional goal of a battle, he wanted to eliminate so many of France’s infantry that they would have to surrender.  His strategy nearly worked, but as the numbers show, it was just as devastating to the German forces as it was to the French.  To call Verdun a victory for either side would be incorrect – Verdun was a victory for death alone.

 A wounded French soldier lives to fight another day

Today the town of Verdun has been rebuilt.  But none of the 9 rural villages have been.  They were the site of too great a tragedy for people to return and rebuild.  The church of the village Fleury was rebuilt after the war, but the people did not return.  Visiting Fleury is a haunting reminder of the past – the former streets are marked by small concrete pillars – indicating where this family or that family lived, where the baker practiced his craft, where the blacksmith forged the farmers’ tools.  The ground is still cratered, but trees and grass grow once again on this former moonscape.

A cafe and grocery store once stood on this spot.

The cratered landscape sprouts life once again.  There are still off-limits areas around the battlefield because of live shells in the ground.

Up the road from Fleury is the Verdun Memorial Museum.  This is an excellent museum that does not glorify war in any way.  Nor does it stand as a monument to any sort of French nationalism.  The French flag flies beside the German flag here, with the European Union flag in between.  The equipment and uniforms will sate the most dedicated military history buff, while the personal stories and the excellent film shown in the theatre will make those human connections that are so important in a memorial like this.

The Verdun Memorial Museum

Down the road from Fleury, at the head of a French military cemetery is the huge Douaumont Ossuary – filled with the remains of more than 130 000 unidentified dead.  The decision was made at the conclusion of the war to inter all the remains together – identification by nationality was all but impossible for many of the bodies, but more importantly, irrelevant.  Each one was a son, possibly a brother, possibly a husband, possibly a father.  Each one came to Verdun to do “his duty” for his nation, and in so doing, lost his life.

The Douaumont Ossuary  at the head of the French military cemetery.  The bottom of the ossuary is filled with the remains of the unidentified bodies on the battlefield.  One of the bodies was transported to Paris and lies under the Arc de Triomphe at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

One of those men, a French lieutenant,, wrote in his journal, “Humanity is mad.  It must be mad to do what it is doing.  What a massacre!  What scenes of horror and carnage! I cannot find words to translate my impressions.  Hell cannot be so terrible.”  He was later killed in an artillery attack.

The battlefields of Verdun are tranquil now.  Very peaceful.  And the survivors of this battle are all gone.  Soon, anyone who was alive during WW I will be gone. But the Douaumont Ossuary, the church at Fleury, and the Verdun Memorial museum remain to remind us:  never forget, and never repeat.

Verdun, once a site of savage warfare, now a symbol of reconciliation and peace for the nations of France and Germany.

OneLife Tours visits the Verdun battlefield and memorial museum on our Grand Tour of Europe.

Sick of election campaigns?

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As frustrating and at times exacerbating as election campaigns can be, they are an intrinsic part of the freedom that is the core of our civilization. The right to take part in choosing your leader has not always been a right – through most of human history it was either non-existent or the “privilege” of certain powerful and wealthy classes of people.  On any given election day, my thoughts have turn to the House of Terror in Budapest, Hungary – a country that spent much of the 20^th century without free elections.

Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, was once the proud co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, until the “age of empires” came to an end at the conclusion of First World War.  The new nation of Hungary emerged from the crumbling empire, but with many different groups vying for power, it lacked stability, and during the Second World War fell prey to the extreme nationalist ideology of the Arrow Cross Party.  The Arrow Cross believed in the “purity of the Hungarian race” and other such early 20^th century eugenics nonsense, and mimicked the German Nazi party in their hatred and persecution of minorities, especially Jews.  In the short time they ruled Hungary, they oversaw the attempted annihilation of the Jewish population, transporting hundreds of thousands of Jews to concentration camps, even as the war turned against them and defeat became inevitable.  

Arrow Cross fascist propaganda

In October 1944, with the German troops on the run and the Arrow Cross thoroughly defeated, Hungary was liberated. 

Liberated from one form of tyranny, replaced by another.  The Soviet army now controlled Budapest, and in the dividing up of Europe that occurred after the final defeat of the Nazis, Hungary found itself on the wrong side of the Iron Curtain.  Though an independent state in name, Hungary was essentially a satellite state of the USSR, and when stirrings of rebellion made their way back to Moscow in 1956, they sent in the tanks.  There are actually a large number of Hungarian-Canadians in the Fraser Valley (where I live) who immigrated to Canada in 1956 after escaping from the increasing tyranny.

How does a hated, unelected government maintain power over the citizens?  Indoctrination?  Yes.  But mostly terror.   Soldiers patrol the streets. “Traitors” are publically executed.  Neighbours just disappear.  During both the fascist and communist regimes, there was a building on Andrássy Street in Budapest that people talked about in hushed tones.  It was the place where surveillance of citizens was carried out. It was the place where those who “disappeared” ended up.  Some were eventually released, broken after days or weeks of torture.  Some were never seen again. 

The building is now a museum – The House of Terror. 

The House of Terror

 When you walk into the museum, you come face to face with a Soviet tank surrounded by an enormous wall filled with mugshots of some of the victims of tyranny.  Their faces are a haunting reminder that these people are not just statistics – they were sons and daughters, mothers and fathers, brothers and sisters.  And they had one thing in common – a desire for freedom. 

A symbol and tool of repression

In 1989, the collective desire for freedom outweighed the will of the tyrants to control the people.  With communism collapsing all over Eastern Europe, the people of Hungary demanded and got their first free parliamentary elections in May 1990.  And that building on Andrássy Street lost its aura of terror.  But it didn’t lose its history, and so in 2002 it was opened to the public as the memorial and museum it is today.

Not just statistics

Interested in visiting the museum?  OneLife Tours Best of the East includes a three day stop in Budapest with tours of the House of Terror and many other highlights of this beautiful city.  Go to our website OneLifeTours.ca for more information.